Driving into Nicosia from the south, you receive your first reminder that the Cypriot capital is a divided city before you even arrive. An enormous flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, painted on the side of the Kyrenia mountains, looms above the skyline.
You will be driving because you cannot fly. Commercial flights in and out of the Nicosia International Airport stopped after the Turkish invasion of the island in 1974. The abandoned, bullet-marked terminal is now one of the most potent symbols of partition – the area around it serves as a base for the UN peacekeeping force, which maintains the “green line” between the Turkish and Greek Cypriot communities.
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